GOING TO IRELAND? Drive the Wild Atlantic Way
Planning a Trip
to Ireland?
Take a Drive on The Wild Atlantic Way
By Tom Richards
In January, just after Christmas,
many people (as well as families) are starting to plan their next holiday.
Somewhere rather special, they might think as they sit around their dining room
table. If you really do want something special, why not visit the Republic of
Ireland? And if you’re looking for a journey of magic, take a drive along part
of the Wild Atlantic Way.
The Wild Atlantic Way, 1600 miles (2600 km) in length, is one of the longest defined coastal routes in the world. It winds its way all along the Irish west coast from the Inishowen Peninsula in the north down to the picturesque town of Kinsale, County Cork, in the south. The Wild Atlantic Way route from start to finish unfolds the wonders of nature, the power of the ocean and its imprint on the west coast of Ireland, and the stunning countryside in all its diversity. Enchanting villages are nestled along the coast as well as ancient monuments – their origins having long sunk into the mists of oblivion dot the landscape. Behind every bend on this magical coastal road a new delight awaits.
The wild Atlantic with its
unrestrained and untameable tides and storms has continuously been moulding the
west coast of Ireland. With a constant meeting of water and land, a deeply
indented and wild terrain has emerged with towering cliffs, spellbinding bays
and beaches, mystical islands, always changing and never reaching the end. In
the isolation or perhaps expressed in a different way living near and with the
Atlantic at your doorstep has ensured that old traditions and the Irish
language have been preserved. A trip along the Wild Atlantic Way is also an
encounter with the past.
An Adventure of a Lifetime
Let’s
assume you only have a week to ten days to enjoy the wonders of Ireland. As a
fella who has lived in Ireland for almost 44 years, and is a dual national –
Yank and Irish – I like to think I’m in a good position to advise anyone
thinking of traveling to Ireland.
You and
yours can land in Shannon, County Limerick or Dublin, County Dublin. If Dublin
(which is the most popular) spend a day or two walking into the city from your
hotel or AirBnB. If you are staying outside of Dublin, take the bus in or, if
you can, the Luas Tram. Walk up Grafton Street and do some shopping in one of
the best shopping districts in all of Europe. Buy flowers from the many street
vendors or give a bob or three to the musicians who play in all sorts of
weather. These buskers depend on tourist generosity to get by. Or how about a
pint or two at a great local pub anywhere along Grafton Street?
If you
want to get out of the rain and enjoy a great cup of tea (and perhaps a scone
with jam and clotted cream, or maybe a fry-up breakfast, then go to Bewleys.
This wonderful establishment re-opened only a few years ago and is a ‘meeting
point’ for many local people who sit and chat or perhaps bring their laptop
along to work.
If you
enjoy Guinness, then take a taxi up to the famous Guinness Distillery on
James’s Gate. There, try a number of new brewery recipes and enjoy the view of
Dublin from the glass-enclosed tower. Finished with your Pint? Then how about
walking to the Viking Exhibition which is not too far away. Enjoy the stories
of how these fierce Danes conquered all of Dublin and a great deal of Ireland.
And how, when the County Dublin offices were built along the Liffey River, the
workers found many, many Viking and Danish Artifacts.
Dublin
is fascinating. It has many museums including one of the best natural museums
in the world.
If you
can do it (many tourists can’t), avoid Temple Bar in central Dublin. The crowds
can be very thick and the price of a Pint is beyond almost anyone’s budget –
espcially those who live in the ‘Big Smoke’ or come up from other counties in
Ireland to visit relatives, shop, or conduct business.
The Southwest of Ireland – a Place of Tranquillity
Having
finished with your one night stay, head south again this time all the way to
Cashel (which is on the M-80 Motorway). Here, you can have one of the best
visits to an Irish Castle you’ll find across Ireland. I was able to walk in
once just after it had been refurbished. The fortress is still dank and cold,
just as the old Kings and their many subjects used to experience. Set on a dramatic outcrop of
limestone in the Golden Vale, the Rock of Cashel, iconic in its historic
significance, possesses the most impressive cluster of medieval buildings in
Ireland. Among the monuments to be found there is a round tower, a high cross,
a Romanesque chapel, a Gothic cathedral, an abbey, the Hall of the Vicars
Choral and a fifteenth-century Tower House.
Originally
the seat of the kings of Munster, according to legend St. Patrick himself came
here to convert King Aenghus to Christianity. Brian Boru was crowned High King
at Cashel in 978 and made it his capital. In 1101 the site was granted to the
church and Cashel swiftly rose to prominence as one of the most significant
centres of ecclesiastical power in the country. The surviving buildings are
remarkable. Cormac’s Chapel, for example, contains the only surviving
Romanesque frescoes in Ireland.
The Rock
of Cashel is one of Ireland’s most spectacular and – deservedly – most visited
tourist attractions.
Now head
south again. Drive only 2 hours or so and you’re in Cork City, one of the best
walking cities in the world. I’ve been there with my wife and partner, Carm,
any number of times. Here, you can go to the Fish Market, which Queen Elizabeth
II visited during her walking journey in Cork City. Buy some of the best fish
in all of Ireland here. Take a break in the many fine restaurants or shop on
James’s Street, one that is a good as Dublin’s Grafton Street.
You and yours can stay in many fine
hotels in the city or stay just outside of the city in great hotels, BnB’s or
‘rental’ apartments just above the pubs located on the hill above Cork City.
Instead of a Pint of Guinness, try a Pint of Beamish or Murphy’s stout. Have a
ball in Cork City – one of the best ‘smaller’ cities in all of Ireland.
Now, if I were you I’d take your car
into the ‘Wild West’ of Ireland. Use Google Maps to make it easy – when I first
moved to Ireland, there was not such thing as Google Maps at all. Put the
following into your mobile phone’s Google Maps: EYERIES COUNTY CORK. By doing
so, you will see some of the most spectacular views in the entire country.
Heading west on the M-40 Motorway, you’ll be told to turn southwest. Drive through some lovely villages including Copeen. Stop and enjoy a snack at the only local bar and restaurant in this tiny village or fill the rental car with petrol. Driving west again, you’ll be given a choice to turn toward Skibbereen (which I do many times). If you take this route, you can stop at the Farmer’s market there. Or, turn the other way and head directly for Bantry (as another route option). Bantry
is the gateway to the Beara Peninsula. What you’ll find in this rural part of Ireland is that most things are much cheaper than they are in many larger cities across this wonderful country.
You’ll hear the sing-song accents of
the local people. Ask them to slow down if you don’t understand them – they
really are talking in English. Enjoy the Market if it’s on. Usually, it occurs
on most Fridays in the town square. Perhaps take a stroll up the main street to
shop or have some of the best fish in all of the country. Or, go the other way
and walk along the pier to see the many trawlers and sailing boats anchored
just off the coast or along the cement pier.
You can, of course, stay in some
great smaller hotels in Bantry with prices that are more than reasonable. Or,
climb back in your car and you’ll find you’re only about 1 hour away from
Eyeries, my home and a place where my heart will always be.
Driving south again, you can stop
again in Glengarriff, County Cork, if you feel a bit hungry. Go to Casey’s Bar
and Grill for Lunch or, if you’d prefer, have breakfast at almost anytime. The
Osprey is located just across the Street from Quill’s Woolen Mills, a shop that
I go to almost anytime I’m in this small town. Or take the small boat out to
Garanish Island. To book a short ferry crossing both ways to this absolutely
breathtaking location, go to: Home - Harbour Queen Ferry
Eyeries, Your Home Too During Your Stay
I must
admit that I’m very biased when it comes to this lovely coastal village. After
all, I’ve lived there with Carmel for many, many years and it will always hold
a special place in my heart.
If I’m home at my robin’s nest blue
house on the seaside (Mainstreet), I’ll have the camping site open again. If
you tell me you’ve read this article, I’ll give you half price off your
tent-camping. And yes, we have all sorts of camping equipment to rent by any
passing motorist.
Carm and I always do when we want some seaside fresh air. Take a walk around the ring from our home all the way around the coast and right back again. When you’re back in the Village, stop at any one of the shops to buy some essential provisions. Sullivans is one of my favourites as well as the Post Office. At Sullivans you can also buy petrol and diesel for your motor car.
Want a Pint or a drink? Then you
have two great choices. Mary O’Shea’s has some excellent Pints and other drinks
for not too much money. She also has one of the warmest fires of any Irish Pub
I’ve ever been to.
If you want a view of the sea, go to
Causkey’s Bar and tell Jay Tom Richards sent you. Jay and her family own one of
the nicest pubs in all of Ireland. The view from the back picture window is
spectacular. When a storm blows up from the West, you can see horse’s tails
shoot up along the rocky coast. Look straight west and you can see the small
islands of Eyeries in the near distance, then Inishfarnard, then Scariff, which
looks somewhat like a whale.
You can stay in many small BnB’s in
Ireland. When I first went down to Eyeries to buy our home, I stayed at the
Coulagh Bay House owned by John and Teresa. Over the years this family has
become some of our best friends. To book your room, go to: Home | Coulagh Bay House
Finally, if you want to drive
somewhere very special, head across the Beara Peninsula to Castletownbere. This
is the largest deepwater fishing port in all of Ireland. Try the best fresh
fish served in many of this town’s restaurants. Carm and I always went to
Tich’s restaurant, right across the street from the SuperValu Grocery Store.
This is a fine family restaurant with prices to match and with service that
can’t be beat. Tell the family Tom sent ya and they’ll make sure you have the
best lunch or dinner you’ve ever had in your life!
Finished with your meal, then walk
across the street for a Pint at Lockers Bar. You can play pool there for only
€2.00 per game against some of the best pool players around. Tell Martin, the
son of the owner, I said hi! He’ll tell you many stories of history about the
area as well as all over Europe and the world. Or, if you want to, go up to
McCarthy’s Bar. They serve a fine breakfast as well as lunch and also serve a
great Pint of Guinness. Here, you ask about the sword the owner’s grandfather
was given at the end of his imprisonment in Japan during World War 2.
Your journey here is ended. From
this wonderful location, you can drive along the coast to Allihies and treat
yourself to a walk along a great beach. Or drive to Kenmare, a wonderful town
full of shopping and many kinds of hotels and restaurants. From there, it’s up
to you. Drive north all the way to Killarney and back to Dublin. Or keep
heading north up the West Coast of Ireland along the Wild Atlantic Way.
Whatever you do, I’m sure you’ll
have a wonderful time. And as they say in the Irish, Go mbeannaí Dia duit agus
bain sult as!, God bless and enjoy!
For much more information on
travelling to Ireland, visit my Blog. Go to https://storylinesent.com (my personal
Author Site). At the top, in the navigation ribbon, CLICK ON BLOG. Or go direct by clicking on this: A Yank Survives Ireland
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